fiction.wikisort.org - Director

Matthew Jacob Hong (born September 4, 1991) is an American rock climber, filmmaker and photographer. In 2018, he became the fourth American to climb a route graded at 5.15b (9b).[2] As a filmmaker, he directed the 2017 film Break on Through, which documented Margo Hayes completing the first female ascent of a 5.15-rated route, featured on the Reel Rock Film Tour.[3]

Matty Hong

Hong in 2019
Personal information
Born	(1991-09-04) 4 September 1991 (age 31)[1] Boulder, Colorado, United States
Education	University of Colorado Boulder
Occupation	Rock climber, film director, photographer
Climbing career
Highest grade	Redpoint: 5.15b (9b) On-sight: 5.13a (7c+) Bouldering: V15 (8C)
Known for	Becoming the fourth American climber to send a 5.15b (9b) route

Biography

Hong was born in Boulder, Colorado in 1991. He began climbing at an early age, brought to climbing spots in Rifle Canyon as a baby by his father Steve Hong and mother Karin Budding, who were both pioneering rock climbers.[4] He joined a climbing team in middle school and began climbing more seriously at age 15, when he climbed his first 5.13d (8b) and 5.14a (8b+) routes in Rifle.[5]

In 2011, Hong recorded the first ascent of Bad Girls Club in Rifle[6] and in 2015, he bolted and completed his first route, La Cucaracha in Wicked Cave, also in Rifle.[7]

After earning a Bachelor of Fine Arts in Film Production at the University of Colorado Boulder,[8] Hong climbed his first 5.15a (9a+) route, Papichulo 5.15a (9a+) in Oliana, Spain, in March 2016.[5]

In May 2018, he climbed the 5.15b (9b) Fight or Flight in Oliana, Spain, becoming the fourth American to climb the grade[2] after Chris Sharma, Ethan Pringle and Daniel Woods.[9]

In October 2021, Hong completed the second ever ascent of Flex Luthor, first sent by Tommy Caldwell in 2003. Hong suggested the grade be revised to 5.15b (9b) from 5.15a (9a+) after multiple holds broke making the climb harder.[10] [11]

Hong competed at IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships in 2009 and 2010 in the Male Youth Junior (age 17–19) category.[12] He has also competed in the senior climbing circuit, making the final at the 2011 IFSC Lead World Cup event in Boulder, finishing sixth.[13]

Notable ascents

[14]

Onsight

• 5.13a (7c+)
  • Logical Progression, El Gigante, Mexico
• 5.14b (8c)
  • Mind Control, Oliana, Catalunya

Redpoint

• 5.15b (9b)
  • Fight or Flight, Oliana, Spain, 2018
  • Flex Luthor, Fortress of Solitude, Colorado, 2021
• 5.15a (9a+)
  • La Rambla, Siurana, Spain, 2017
  • Papichulo, Oliana, Spain, 2017
  • Joe Mama, Oliana, Spain, 2017

First ascent

• 5.14d (9a)
  • Bad Girls Club, Rifle, Colorado, 2011
  • Planet Garbage (5.14d), Rifle, Colorado, 2014
  • Stocking Stuffer (5.14d), Rifle, Colorado, 2017
• 5.14c (8c+)
  • La Cucaracha, Rifle, Colorado, 2015
  • Apple Juice Flood, Red River Gorge, Kentucky, 2016
  • Sweet Tooth, Red River Gorge, Kentucky, 2016

Boulders

• V15 (8C)
  • Warrior Up, Lincoln Lake, Colorado, 2012
  • Dreamtime, Ticino, Switzerland, 2020

Competition

Sixth Place

• • 2011 IFSC Lead World Cup, Boulder CO

Filmography

• Break on Through (2017), director, featured on Reel Rock 12[15]

References

External links

• Matty Hong at IMDb
• The North Face profile
• UKclimbing.com profile
• Matty Hong's profile on theCrag

---