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Pit Schubert (born 2 December 1935 in Wrocław) is a German non-fiction author, climber and mountaineer. He is the founder and former head of the safety commission of the German Alpine Club (DAV).[1]

Pit Schubert
Born	(1935-12-02) 2 December 1935 (age 86) Wrocław
Occupation	Author, climber and mountaineer
Nationality	German
Genre	Non-fiction
Notable works	Modern Felstechnik

Life

Schubert started climbing and mountaineering at the age of 17. He became known for both his first ascents and his adherence to alpine doctrines.

He is a qualified engineer, and worked for approximately 15 years in the aerospace industry. In 1968, he was a founding member of the DAV Safety Group, which he chaired until retiring in 2000. He was also president of the UIAA Safety Commission.[2] He worked to standardize climbing equipment, prevented innumerable accidents,[3] and he stated that "At that time man was making the first flight to the moon a reality, but we were still using ice axes with wooden shafts – which could break on the first use on the ice – so a lot of things were waiting to be done.” .

First ascents

• 1967: Piz Ciavazes, South Wall, Via Schubert ( VI + , 220 m), Sellagruppe, Dolomites
• 1968: Guglia di Brenta, SW-edge, Schubert / Werner ( VI, 380 m), Brenta group, Dolomites
• 1969: First ascent of the Roc Noir (Khangsar Kang, 7485 m), Karakorum
• 1975: Fleischbank, Neue Ostwand, Pohlke / Schubert (VIII, 360 m), Kaisergebirge
• 1976: First ascent of the south flank of Annapurna IV (7525 m), Annapurna Massif[4]

Books

• Modern Felstechnik, Bergverlag Rother, 1975
• The application of the rope in ice and rock, Bergverlag Rother, 1998, ISBN 3-7633-6082-4
• Alpine rope technique for beginners and advanced, Bergverlag Rother, 2000, ISBN 3-7633-6083-2
• (Alpine club leader extreme) Kaisergebirge, Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2000. ISBN 3-7633-1272-2
• Via ferrata, Bergverlag Rother, 2003, ISBN 3-7633-6019-0
• Safety and Risk in Rock and Ice, Bergverlag Rother, Volume 1, 7th Edition, 2004, ISBN 3-7633-6016-6 ; Volume 2, 2002, ISBN 3-7633-6018-2 ; Volume 3, 2006, ISBN 3-7633-6031-X
• Alpine Curriculum, Vol. 5: Safety at the Mountain, BLV Verlagsgesellschaft, 2003, ISBN 3-405-16632-2
• Anecdotes from the mountain: Amusing stories of mountaineering, climbing and skiing, Bergverlag Rother, 2010, ISBN 3-7633-7039-0 [5][6]

References

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